The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is located approximately 2 hours north of Manhattan, and offers some of the best and most diverse climbing within the local area. From single to multipitch, trad to toprope to bouldering, you will not be disappointed. Be sure to stop by New Paltz, NY for some great local food since it’s just minutes away from the Gunks. Here are some areas to keep in mind:
The Trapps – Trad lead climbing; Top Rope (natural anchors); Bouldering
Near Trapps – Trad lead climbing
Peterskill – Trad lead climbing; Top Rope (both natural and bolt anchors); Bouldering
- Mohonk Preserve
- Gunks Climbers Coalition
The Dacks is located about 4 hours from Manhattan and avid climbers will not be disappointed! Made up of several different areas, climbers can easily spend a week there and would still not have visited every single crag. If you need break from climbing, the Daks also offers other activities such as canoeing/kayaking, trail hikes, and much more. Check out these websites for more info:
Rumney, NH is one of the hottest destinations in the Northeast for sport climbing. Whether you lead 5.4s or 5.11s, Rumney is a MUST. The rock itself is so bomber that CRUX reserves Labor and Memorial Day weekends just for this location! There are some trad lines, as well as mixed (combo of sport / trad) lines, but Rumney is a sport climbing haven. You will not be disappointed.
Birdsboro, aka The Bird, is located in Pennsylvania and approximately 2.5 hours from Manhattan. This area is a local favorite amongst Philly folks and word is starting to spread about the Bird! There are 45+ sport lead routes at all levels. Local campgrounds and cabins are also available close by. Not too far from the Bird is Safe Harbor, PA which offers some additional sport climbs. Check out the Safe Harbor site for up to date info about route / crag closures.
West Point, NY
West Point is approximately 2 hours north of Manhattan and is all sport, all the time. Right alongside the train tracks and the Hudson River, the rock can get pretty dirty. However, it offers several grades and slab climbing. So if you need to work on slab this is the place to be. Avoid this area in the dead of summer or just bring a lot of sunscreen as there is little to no shade.
Closed since 2012, the Powerlinez – located just 1.5 hours away from NYC – recently reopened in the Spring of 2013 and offers trad lead, natural anchor top rope, and lots of bouldering.
Don’t have access to a car or just want to crush some stiff bouldering routes? NYC offers some great problems for you to crush. From Central Park to Fort Tryon, check out these local areas and guides: